​Savannah is said to be a town of creatives. Savannah was recently voted the best place for creatives to live. This is largely due to a world renown Music Festival, Savannah College of Art and Design, Telfair Museums and other art organizations. But the fact is Savannah has been able to call themselves a home for creatives at other times too. For Example, During the early to the mid twentieth century with Telfair Academy established in 1886, the Savannah Art Club, and what I have termed Cotton Row Art Colony on Factor’s Walk the art community in Savannah was flourishing.
One of the examples of an artist who came for a period to enjoy and create here in Savannah was Andre Ruellen (April 6, 1905 – July 15, 2006). She painted in the realist style with a modernist touch. Her work would be collected by the Whitney Museum, New York, Phillips Collection, District of Columbia Fogg Art Museum, Harvard University, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Philadelphia MOA, San Diego MOA, and Savannah’s own Telfair Museums. One of her first paintings to be bought by a museum was the Wind-Up a painting of Savannah bought by the Phillip’s Collection.
Andre Ruellen came to Savannah in 1941 with her husband painter and printer John Taylor. Taylor would teach printmaking at the Telfair Academy. When the couple first came to Savannah they went about town sketching things of interest to themselves. Observing them an over eager police officer thought the two may be spies and took them down to the police station. Alexander Brook, one of the Cotton Row painters and friend, came to their rescue and vouched for them. They were released.   Having said this the officer may not have been that far off. Ruellen who was of French descent had parents who were ardent socialists.
Ruellen who had been born in Manhattan had her first published work in the socialist magazine The Masses Ruellen found the American South of interest and would visit Georgia several times. Ruellen was a social realist painter at times. She looked at the South with an eye that would create paintings that would reflect a commentary about southern life. While in Savannah she created three paintings of Savannah scenes Savannah Landscape: City Market, The Wind-Up, and Savannah.  Two of these are in the Telfair Museums collection. John Taylor, her husband, has a print created during his printmaking classes at the Telfair that rests in the Museum’s collection.
Ruellen and her husband during her short stay could have had contact with two of Savannah’s more successful painters Christopher Murphey Jr. and Augusta Oelschig who had garnered national attention. But that year in Savannah either living or passing through would have been Edward Weston, Alexander Brook and his wife Gina Knee (a painter whose work can be found in the Phillip’s collection and Denver Art Museum to name two). Ruellen may have even had contact with two Savannah celebrities Harry Hervey who was writing screenplays for Hollywood and plays for New York was living here and maybe Johnny Mercer visited home while she was here.
Whatever the case there was an active arts community here in Savannah during her several weeks stay. Savannah has always been a city of artists and creatives. Today that tradition continues.

​Ulysses Houston pastor of Savannah’s First Bryan Baptist Church during the Reconstruction era was not just a pastor of sermons but of action too. He was born a slave in South Carolina. He was taken by his master to Savannah to serve as a house servant. After he was freed he worked in the city’s hospital. He learned to read from white sailors while working there.
As many literate and capable black leaders he was attracted to the ministry. The black churches were the most prominent entity in black life. He was licensed to preach in 1855. In 1861 Rev. Ulysses L. Houston became pastor of First Bryan between 1861 to 1889. The church grew during his time as pastor. As he served as pastor, he also served twice as president of the black Baptists in Georgia.
As an influential minister he was one of 16 black church leaders who met with Gen. Sherman and Defense Secretary Edwin M. Stanton in 1865. In this meeting the black representatives told the two representatives of Lincoln’s administrative that the primary thing former slaves and other blacks needed was land to farm. This request would lead to Sherman’s fabled forty acres and a mule But for now  land belonging to those who rose up in rebellion against the federal government had already been declared "abandoned" by an act of Congress .Sherman ordered 400,000 acres of land on the coast from Charleston to the border of Florida and Georgia St. John’s River be redistributed to the former slaves.
With this new order from Sherman, Houston rushed to take advantage of it. He led 1,000 blacks to Skidaway Island, Ga on of the barrier islands off the shore of Savannah where they established a self-governing community. Houston was declared the “black governor.” They farmed and raised crops on the island until 1866 when whites regained the land.
In 1868, during Reconstruction, Houston was elected to the Georgia State Legislature. He was one of thirty-three blacks who were elected. They are now called the ‘Original 33’. The ‘Original 33’ were all expelled or through violence or the threat of violence were forced to resign by the white community. A monument called “The Expelled Because of Their Color" sits on state Capitol property. The names of the thirty-three men are inscribed on it.
Houston Baptist Church in Port Wentworth (small town outside of Savannah) and its adjoining cemetery were organized in 1886. It was obviously named after Houston. The church is built like a plantation praise house. While the church disbanded a while back it now serves as a small museum of the history of Port Wentworth.
Houston led a life of service to his community and demonstrated the Gospel not only through his words but also through his actions.
 

​It is hard to tell where Savannah starts and Thunderbolt begins. The small town east of Savannah lies on Wilmington River Bluff. Surrounding Savannah there are many small towns whose history is not quite as grand but interesting and add to Savannah’s history. The Town of Thunderbolt owes its name to a legend of a lightning strike that created a freshwater spring on the Wilmington Bluff.  Thunderbolt came into being as a shipping point for the needs of the plantations and small farmer’s on the coast. It also became a place for building and repairing of boats for those same people. The town was incorporated in 1856 as Warsaw.
This incorporation was done amidst an economy change to a place where fish was processed. The incorporation would lead to a trolley from Savannah through Gordonston and ending in Thunderbolt being created. No longer would it be the place just beyond Savannah’s city limits to hold duels, or the place once inhabited by Native Americans. It was a new town of ‘white ‘commerce.
In 1890, Georgia State College was founded in Thunderbolt for the education of African Americans. This college is known today as Savannah State University. It was the first college in Savannah and the first historically black university in Georgia. In 1921, Warsaw's name was restored to Thunderbolt.
In1893 the casino came to town. The electric company wanted to entice people to ride the trolley to its end (Thunderbolt). The casino was one of the first establishments in the Savannah area to show movies.  The site had two bandstands for concerts and dancing. One bandstand was a circular gazebo in the center of a large round duck pond west of the casino. Wood and cast iron benches lined the bluff overlooking the river. The casino grounds included an amusement park, a thirty-acre zoo and a beer garden. A post card image of the Casino, tightrope walkers perform on a rope set up over the duck pond at almost twice the height of the Casino. It was one of the ‘most be places’ to be on a Saturday. The casino burned down in 1930 and was never replaced.
But the citizens of Thunderbolt had not stopped with being a place to be. In 1939, yacht racing became popular and saw the construction of a yacht basin. Annually, the "Blessing of the Fleet" was celebrated until recent years and shrimping evolved into the primary seafood product. The bluff of Thunderbolt had served its military purposes. During the Civil War a battery was built on the bluff to keep union troops from going up the Wilmington River. Jefferson Davis came to town to tour the battery. During World War II the yacht basin was used for rescue boats. Today, the city still serves as base for shrimpers to dock, sell and process their product. They also have a yacht repair company that works on yachts around the world. In fact, I laughed at the irony of some of my homeless men working on the yacht of Bill Gates. They have Tubby’s a seafood place with live bands and large crowds. But compared to its former self it is a sleepier town. So, the next time you cross the bridge of interstate 80 via Victory Drive slow down and see Thunderbolt.  They have no duels or casino but they do have some vintage homes, a bluff, shrimpers to purchase from, yachts, and pier.  

Crawford Square is on Houston Street between Perry and Hull Streets and is the only square that is still fenced as all the squares were at one time. Crawford Sqaure is probably one of Savannah’s most unique squares. It was laid out in 1840 and was name for Savannah William Harris Crawford. He was a Georgia Senator, Minister to France, Secretary of Treasurer under James Madison as well as major candidate for President. The square is the smallest and was the only square that allowed blacks free use.
 
Crawford Square is the only square to retain part of its fence that all the squares originally had. You can see the multiple purposes squares were often used. After the great Savannah Fire of 1820 two cisterns were placed in the square to give access to firefighters for water to fight fires. These cisterns are partially revealed. In the middle of the square is a gazebo. And on one side of the square is a basketball court.
The basketball court is significant because of how it came to be. In the days of Jim Crow money for the black community and its recreation needs was not highly forthcoming. But the recreation department held a basketball tournament that is still held today and offer the winner of the tournament a basketball court. The Black team from the Crawford Square Neighborhood won the tournament and received the court that now stands in Crawford Square as an award. Through the years developers and others have wanted to do away with the court because of various reasons but the black community has insisted on the court remaining. Thus, it is the only square with a recreational use.
I imagine one day there may be a historical marker alongside the square marking where The Lady Chablis of the Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil fame lived before she became the star she was meant to be. The Square is a reminder of hard times for blacks but also of how they pulled together to create a good place to live.
 
 

Every great city has at least one good independent bookstore. Savannah as I already noted in a previous blog has the new and used bookstore called the Book Lady. But the oldest bookstore in Savannah is E. Shavers Bookseller. Last month in Mother Nature News it was celebrated as one of seventeen extraordinary bookstores in the world.

The bookstore is located on Madison Square in the historic district of Savannah. In an old home behind the Desoto Hotel magical things happen. The store which is over forty years old has seven rooms of new fiction and non-fiction books. Two rooms are dedicated to children’s books and one room is for local and regional topics. Here in this store you can find a chair or two to look at books on every subject from architecture and history to graphic novels and cooking. And to keep you company while you read are two cats who claim the window sills and other nooks and crannies as their home.

They have an old manual typewriter in one room to use to get a feel for how writers used to write their books or poems. Plus you can write a message for future book lovers to find. It also has two rooms dedicated to a Savannah Tea Room. The Savannah Tea Room has one table and a few stools to sit and drink a cup of hot tea. Here in these two rooms you will find all the accoutrements for making tea and tea from all over the world.

E. Shavers has some longstanding book clubs associated with them. The names of a few are The Feminist Book Club, Sci-Fi and Fantasy Book Club, Happy Hour Book Club, and a Graphic Novel Book Club. This rambling building has hosted book signings of famous local and regional authors as Pat Conroy, Harrison Scott Key, Mary Kay Andrews, John Berendt, and this blogger Michael Freeman.

In 1976 when Esther Shaver first opened the store in the Greek Revival home could one imagine the place in now claims in Savannah’s and book lovers’ hearts from around the world. Despite Shaver’s retirement the bookstore persist as the new generation owner Jessica Osborne continues to help warm the heart of many a bibliophile. 
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